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				<description>The Peugeot 207cc - everything you need to know</description>

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				<copyright><div class='justify2'>All trademarks are Copyright © their respective owners, All product names mentioned herein are the trademarks of their respective owners. In addition, images, logos, pictures or other material may be trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners.All other Content is Copyright © 207cc.org 2008 - 2010|  <a href='http://www.207cc.org/Privacy.php' title='207cc Privacy Policy'>Privacy Policy</a>  |  <a href='http://www.207cc.org/contacts.php' title='Contact Details'>Contact Details</a>  |  <a href='http://www.207cc.org/gsitemap.php?show' title='Sitemap'> Sitemap</a> |   <a href='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/rss.php'><img src='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/images/rss1.png' alt='RSS 1' style='vertical-align: middle; border: 0;' /></a>  <a href='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/rss.php'><img src='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/images/rss2.png' alt='RSS 2' style='vertical-align: middle; border: 0;' /></a>  <a href='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/rss.php'><img src='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/images/rss3.png' alt='RSS 3' style='vertical-align: middle; border: 0;' /></a>  <a href='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/rss.php'><img src='{e_PLUGIN}rss_menu/images/rss4.png' alt='RSS 4' style='vertical-align: middle; border: 0;' /></a>This site is independently owned and run and is not an official Peugeot site. It is run by and on behalf of 207cc owners for the benefit of others who own or are thinking of owning a Peugeot 207cc now or in the future.Any technical information or personal opinions given by 207cc.org members are provided in good faith and for guidance only.No responsibility can or will be accepted for loss or damage arising out of such information. If in any doubt, please refer to your local Peugeot specialist or dealer before undertaking any work.Any information or views expressed in posts in the forums on this website are those of the poster and not those of 207cc.org - Website created by <a href='http://www.nwm-online.co.uk' title='Site Creators'>NWM ONLINE</a></div><div class='center'><a href='http://www.spambotsecurity.com/zbblock.php' title='ZB Block, GPL PHP Website Spam and Hacking Prevention System' style='letter-spacing: -1px; font-size:8pt; background-color:#FFFFFF; text-decoration:none;'><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif' color='#000000'><strong> Protected by : <font color='#FF0000'>ZB BLOCK </font></strong></font></a></div></copyright>
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						<title>What is a Lamba Sensor</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.10.86</link>
<description><![CDATA[No it's not a dance  What it does Lambda sensor is a post-engine sensor fitted into the exhaust system of a vehicle that measures the amount of Oxygen in the exhaust stream. It signals the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) with a voltage signal relevant to this Oxygen level. The ECU interprets this as an indication of the vehicle’s air/fuel mixture strength.It is an essential part of the vehicle’s engine management system and the longevity of the catalytic converter is dependant upon its correct operation.All petrol engined vehicles made for the UK market since 1993 have at least one Lambda sensor fitted. They are normally fitted into the exhaust manifold or down pipe of the vehicle in a position that is as close to the engine as possible. The body shape resembles that of a spark plug.Vehicles with EOBD (European On Board Diagnostics, year 2000 onwards, for the UK market) may have two sensors fitted, one before and one after the catalytic converter.How it works:The sensor is comprised of a ceramic element, protected by a steel guard-tube that allows gasses to pass through, housed in a stainless steel casing.The sensing element in the Lambda sensor is a thimble shaped ceramic tip made from a material known as Zirconium Dioxide (hence the name Zirconia). Mounted on both the outer and inner surface are permeable Platinum electrodes. These electrodes carry the sensor’s signal through the wires and on to the ECU. The outer surface of the element (thimble) is open to the exhaust gasses and the inside of the element (thimble) is open to atmosphere.The design of the sensor’s tip is such that (when it’s up to operating temperature) a difference in Oxygen level between the inner and outer surfaces results in a small electrical voltage being generated. It is this voltage that the ECU measures, the higher the difference in Oxygen levels, the higher the voltage generated. The sensor is “self generating”; hence it acts as a stand alone part that doesn’t need an input for it to operate. The voltage generated is very small, from minimum to maximum the output range is only one volt.Zirconia sensors can have one to four wires. They all have an output wire (normally black). The two and four wire sensors have a separate earth (normally grey). The three and four wire sensors have an internal heater element which enables the sensor to get up to operating temperature quicker (normally the two white wires). Please note that wire colours can vary between Lambda sensor manufacturers, the most common ones have been referred to.Reasons for failure:There are two principles areas of failure.1. Heater element;failure of which results in an elongated warm-up period, increased emissions from cold and possible catalytic converter damage.2. Sensor element;contamination of the porous ceramic tips by becoming blocked/polluted which results in poor response to mixture changes or in extreme cases total failure. The pollution can be as a result of chemical pollution from exhaust paste, antifreeze, gasket sealant or from excessive carbon build up due to engine wear or extended service life.Drivability SymptomsA lambda sensor’s normal life span is 30,000 to 50,000 miles, but the sensor may fail prematurely if it becomes clogged with carbon, or is contaminated by lead from leaded petrol or silicone from an antifreeze leak or from silicone sealer.As the sensor ages, it becomes sluggish. Eventually it produces an unchanging signal or no signal at all. When this happens, the Check Engine Light may come on, and the engine may experience drivability problems caused by an overly rich fuel condition. Poor fuel economy, elevated CO and HC emissions, poor idle, and/or hesitation during acceleration are typical complaints.If the average voltage from the lambda sensor is running high (more than 0.50V), it indicates a rich condition, possibly due to a bad MAP, MAF or Air Flow sensor or leaky injector. If the average voltage reading is running low (less than 0.45V), the mixture is running lean possibly due to a vacuum leak or because the sensor itself is bad.If the lambda sensor continually reads high (rich), it will cause the engine computer to lean out the fuel mixture in an attempt to compensate for the rich reading. This can cause lean misfire, hesitation, stumbling, poor idle and high hydrocarbon emissions (from misfiring).If the lambda sensor continually reads low (lean), it will cause the engine computer to enrich the fuel mixture. Injector pulse width will increase causing fuel consumption and carbon monoxide emissions to go up. Constant rich fuel mixture can also cause the catalytic converter to overheat and it may be damaged.If the lambda sensor’s output is sluggish and does not change (low cross counts &amp; long transition times), the engine computer will not be able to maintain a properly balanced fuel mixture. The engine may run too rich or too lean, depending on the operating conditions. This, in turn, may cause drivability problems such as misfiring, surging, poor idle, and high emissions.If a heated sensor has a faulty heating circuit or element, the sensor can cool off at idle causing the system to go into open loop. This usually results in a fixed, rich fuel mixture that will increase emissions.Sometimes an apparent lambda sensor problem is not really a faulty sensor. An air leak in the intake or exhaust manifold or even a fouled spark plug, for example, will cause the lambda sensor to give a false lean indication. The sensor reacts only to the presence or absence of oxygen in the exhaust. It has no way of knowing where the extra oxygen came from. So keep that in mind when diagnosing oxygen sensor problems.The lambda sensor is also grounded through the exhaust manifold. If rust and corrosion of the manifold gaskets and bolts is creating resistance, it may affect the sensor's output. To rule out a bad ground, use a digital volt meter to check for a voltage drop between the sensor shell and the engine block. More than 0.1v can cause a problem.Lambda Sensor ChecksA good lambda sensor should produce a fluctuating signal that changes quickly in response to changes in the oxygen level in the exhaust. The best way to check the sensor is to observe the sensor’s output on a waveform scope or oscilloscope. A scope will display not only the sensor’s minimum and maximum voltage readings, and average voltage reading, but also its back and forth voltage oscillations from rich to lean.Sensor output can also be read directly with a 10K ohm impedance digital voltmeter, or some code readers.CAUTION! Never use an ohmmeter on a zirconium O2 sensor in an attempt to check the sensor because doing so can damage it. And never jump or ground the sensor’s leads.The lambda sensor’s voltage reading should have a minimum reading of 200 millivolts (0.20 V) and a maximum reading of 800 millivolts (0.80 V). If the sensor reading is averaging low (under 400 millivolts) or high (over 500 millivolts), the engine may be running rich or lean because of some other problem.If the sensor’s output voltage never gets higher than 0.60 V and never drops to less than 0.30 V, it needs to be replaced. The same is true if the sensor’s output is sluggish or doesn't change.To check the sensor’s response to changing oxygen levels in the exhaust, first create an artificially lean condition by pulling a large vacuum line. When extra air is introduced into the engine, the sensor’s voltage output should drop to 0.2 V.To check the sensor’s rich response artificially enrich the mixture by, if possible, clamping the return fuel line momentarily. This will force more fuel through the injectors and should cause the O2 sensor’s voltage to increase to 0.8 V.If the sensor’s output fails to respond to the changes you've created in the oxygen level in the exhaust, it’s time for a new sensor.Zirconia sensors can also be bench-tested by heating the tip with a propane torch while monitoring the sensor’s voltage output with a digital voltmeter. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the signal wire (normally black) coming out of the O2 sensor and the negative voltmeter lead to the sensor’s outer shell. Then heat the tip of the sensor with the propane torch. The tip should be hot enough to turn cherry red, and the flame must enter the opening into the sensor tip. If you get a voltmeter reading above 600 millivolts (0.6 volts), and the reading quickly changes as you move the flame back and forth over the tip, the sensor is okay. A low reading or one that is slow to change means the sensor needs to be replaced.Removing Lambda SensorsRemoving the sensor when the engine is cold will lessen the odds of stripping the threads in the exhaust manifold. Penetrating oil may be needed to loosen rusted threads. Once the sensor has been removed, the threads in the manifold should be cleaned before the new sensor is installed. Apply graphite grease to the sensor threads unless the threads are precoated.Replacing Lambda SensorsEverybody knows that spark plugs have to be replaced periodically to maintain peak engine performance, but many people don’t realise the same goes for oxygen sensors. As long the lambda sensor is working properly, there’s no reason to replace it. But after 30,000 to 50,000 miles of being constantly bathed in hot exhaust gas, a build up of deposits on the sensor tip can make it sluggish. If there’s enough clinker on the sensor tip, the sensor may produce little or no voltage at all. This produces a false "lean" signal that makes the computer think the engine needs more fuel, which it doesn’t but gets anyway. This creates a rich fuel condition that kills fuel economy and sends carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon emissions soaring. The engine may also experience additional drivability problems such as surging or hesitation.The same kind of thing can happen if the lambda sensor is contaminated by deposits from sources other than normal combustion. It only takes a couple of tanks full of leaded petrol to ruin a lambda sensor (and catalytic converter). A lead-contaminated oxygen sensor will typically have light rust coloured deposits on the tip. Another source of sensor contamination can come from silicone poisoning. If somebody used the wrong kind of silicone sealer to seal up a leaky rocker box cover or manifold gasket, silicone can find its way into the engine and foul the sensor. Silicates, which are used as corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze, can also cause the same kind of poisoning. Sources here might include a leaky head gasket or cracks in the combustion chamber. Silicone deposits on the sensor tip will have a shiny white to grainy light gray appearance.If the engine has an oil consumption problem due to worn valve stem seals, piston rings and/or cylinders, a build up of heavy black to dark brown oily deposits on the sensor tip can make it sluggish. If the deposits have a black powdery consistency, the fuel mixture is running rich. This may be due to the sensor already having failed, or it might be due to something else such as a leaky injector or a computer problem, or constant short journeys where the cold start system doesn’t have time to come off (open loop) known as housewives’ car.Whenever you suspect a lambda sensor problem, the first thing you should do is scan for any codes that would implicate the sensor circuit. A code by itself doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad, however. It might be a wiring problem or something else. So always follow through with the diagnostic check to diagnose what’s wrong before you replace anything.If you don’t find any codes, that doesn’t necessarily mean the lambda sensor is okay. In many instances, a sluggish sensor may not be bad enough to record a fault code but will still be causing an emissions or drivability problem.]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.10'>What do those technical names / bits do?</category>
<author>noauthor@nospam.com (207ccowner)</author>
<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:06:01 -0600</pubDate>
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						<title>What type of Antifreeze should I use in my 207cc</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.8.85</link>
<description><![CDATA[Phil wrote ...Well...  it's now complicated One can get very complicated about coolant and I was once told to simplify it into green coolant and pink coolant, the latter being an extended life antifreeze. However, there are intrinsic differences in the constituents of various coolants and their compatibilities with one another.Types of Anti-Freeze There are three primary types of anti-freeze for your car’s radiator cooling system:   1. Ethylene Glycol/Polyethylene Glycol. Tried and true, this type of anti-freeze is still standard after almost 70 years. Modern ethylene glycol anti-freezes have several additives to protect, clean, and lubricate your cooling system.   2. Non-Toxic Radiator Coolant. This anti-freeze does not contain ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol (both acutely toxic). These engine coolants are, however, still toxic but only in larger quantities and over longer periods.   3. Extended-Life Anti-Freeze. In most cases, this is simply an ethylene glycol anti-freeze with one or more carboxylate additives to prevent corrosion of the cooling system. These engine coolants should make your car radiator and cooling system last longer. Common engine coolant additives include: nitrates (corrosion inhibitors, buffers), silicates (corrosion inhibitors, especially for aluminum radiators), carboxylates (buffers, corrosion inhibitors), and borates (buffers).Never mix different types of engine coolant. You can damage or further reduce your car radiator’s efficiency by mixing the different types. Before you change types, thoroughly drain and flush your cooling system.The different types - made even more complicated:OAT coolant (orange or pink) contains no silicates and no phosphates. It's a blend of two or more organic acids, a specific class of inhibitors with slow-acting, long-life properties. Texaco's Havoline Dex-Cool (also sold under the Goodwrench label by GM) was the first example. Prestone and Peak also have introduced OAT coolants that are chemically compatible with Dex-Cool.Conventional Japanese coolant (green or red) contains no silicates, but has a heavy dose of phosphates and other inhibitors, including a modest amount of one or two organic acids.Conventional European coolant (blue or yellow) contains a low dose of silicates and no phosphates, but does include other inhibitors, including one organic acid.Hybrid European coolant (blue or green) is similar to conventional European, but with a much greater dose of organic acids. It's a balanced formula designed to have the silicates provide the primary protection for the aluminum, then allow the organic acids to provide long-term protection. I've just been and checked, and the antifreeze sold by Peugeot/Citroen is blue which being European goes with that is said above.  The 107 being Japanese engined is indeed red/pink.]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.8'>Maintenance Tips</category>
<pubDate>Sat, 07 Nov 2009 21:37:31 -0600</pubDate>
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						<title>Repair a damaged leather seat</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.84</link>
<description><![CDATA[For cars that have leather seats it can become an issue on the edge as the leather can get rubbed by jeans studs etc. and if not look after and fed it can crack or discolour.Can you repair this yourself?The answer is YES with a simple kit and a bit of time and patience. Now I know this isn't a car seat but it's actually a better example as it's a lighter colour than most car seats, is larger than most areas normally requiring repair and is best described as a 'Wedgewood' blue although it may appear different on screenI have just repaired a leather footstool which was worn and tired looking and here is how it was done.OK here is what the stool looked like before I started:Stool 1You can see that the top coating had gone and the colour is missing in a few areas so I bought a specialist colour repair kit (matched by the suppliers who specialise in leather repair.In this case it was 'simply' a case of 're colouring' the leather, however they do supply kits for split and holed leatherThe 'small' kit contains everything you need including pre cleaner with scrubbing pad, cloth, sponge, colourant, an air brush kit and sealer/finish Plus detailed instructions, all you need apart from some 1200 grit sandpaper if the surface is really poor. Sandpaper!!! I hear you say, it's a leather repair, bear with me as it isn't as wild as it sounds.First thing to do is use the preparation fluids and the coarse 'scrubber' to remove all the old finish and then sandpaper down all the loose  old finish on the leather to make the surface as smooth as possible.Thing is it looks worse than when you started and you really can't believe you have done it.Next you use the small sponge supplied to apply a base colourant coat and let it dry for 15 - 20 minutes and you can use a hairdryer to speed up the processThis shows the lack of preparation I did so you rub it down again and remove all the dust/roughness before using the air brush kit supplied to apply a finish coat of colourStool 1Next once happy with the basic look and smoothness you apply a finish coat of colour using the air brush again, let it dry for an hour, then apply the finishing protective layers (first a PU gloss sealant, then a layer of satin or matt finisher, depending on the look your after) and you end up with this:The colour match in this instance was superbYes it took a bit of time, but I was doing around a half metre sq area, (most car seats will require attention on a lot smaller area)Total cost?Well it was £45.00 for the kit, a bargain as far as I'm concerned as I have more than enough of the kit plus the airbrush (apart from the air brush propellant) to do the same area again]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2'>How Can I?</category>
<author>noauthor@nospam.com (207ccowner)</author>
<pubDate>Fri, 18 Sep 2009 05:42:34 -0500</pubDate>
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						<title>Find out what the colour of smoke from my Diesel (HDi) exhaust means</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.83</link>
<description><![CDATA[You generally understand what is wrong with a diesel engine by the colour of smoke emitted from the exhaust. There are three basic colours - black, white and blue.Black SmokeThis is due to a air to fuel ratio imbalance, either the fuel system is delivering too much fuel into the engine or there is not enough clean air (oxygen ) a few things to look for :    * Faulty injectors (injectors need attention at about 100.000 to 120 000 miles)    * Faulty injector pump    * Dirty air cleaner    * Turbocharger or intercooler faulty    * Problems within cylinder head, valves clogged up due to faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling unit)White SmokeNormally means that the fuel injected into the cylinder is not burning correctly.  The smoke will burn your eyes.    * Engine/pump timing out    * Fuel starvation to the pump causing the pumps timing not to operate correctly    * Low engine compression    * Water/petrol in the fuelBlue SmokeThe engine is burning engine oil    * Worn cylinders or piston rings    * Faulty valves or valve stem seals    * Engine over full with engine oil    * Faulty injector pump/lift pump allowing engine oil to be mixed with the dieselSource: http://www.uniteddiesel.co.uk/
<br /><br />diesel-engine-smoke.php]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2'>How Can I?</category>
<author>noauthor@nospam.com (207ccowner)</author>
<pubDate>Tue, 11 Aug 2009 22:20:09 -0500</pubDate>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.83</guid>
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						<title>Fault Find on my 207 HDi</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.82</link>
<description><![CDATA[Computer generated fault codes only go a certain distance to point in the direction of the problem. After that, it is a process of elimination, unfortunately at your expense.The innovation of the computer generated fault diagnosis has led to a generation of mechanics that have often lost sight of the basic operating principles of the diesel engine. Unfortunately the fault codes don’t always pin point the problem but rather bring up an array of codes that could be either this or that. Being told: ’we have tried this and it has not helped’ or the best one, ‘sorry there are no fault codes so we can’t find anything’, is extremely frustrating and can be costly.Modern diesel engines are extremely sophisticated and difficult to diagnose. The information below comes from other people’s experiences and years of working in the diesel trade. It is hoped that the information below helps and does not just confuse you but at least it is something to start with and has not cost you anything.  Low compressionLow engine compression will result in insufficient heat being generated to ignite the fuel and cause hard starting. This is more of a problem with older or high mileage vehicles. To find out the compression perform a cold engine compression test. Compression should be between 20 to 35 bars or 300 to 500 PSI. Anything below this will cause starting problems.Low fuel pressureIt is in this area that most fuel supply problems occur. The problem could either be poor fuel supply to the rail/injectors or the rail/injectors are not holding the fuel within the system. The best way to diagnose this is to look at the fuel supply in 3 areas.   1. Low pressure supply from the tank to the high pressure pump (HPP) - some vehicles rely on the HPP to suck the fuel from the tank whilst others have an electric pump in the tank or fuel line to supply fuel to the to the HPP. The supply from the tank to the HPP should be about 2 to 5 bars.   2. Fuel is delivered from the HPP to the rail/injectors at about 200 bars during cranking, 300 bars at idle and anything from 1200 to 1800 bars running.   3. Once the fuel is delivered into the rail/injectors at the relevant pressure it must be maintained within the injectors or rail.Low cranking speedIf the engine turns over too slowly, the pump cannot generate enough fuel pressure to activate start of injection causing hard starting problems. This is usually seen more in the colder months especially if the battery is run down.Glow plugs or relay faultyThe engine relies on the glow plugs to generate heat to help with the combustion cycle. Some engines only use the glow plugs when cold but others will allow the glow plugs to work when the ECU (vehicle’s computer) needs them to be on to help with combustion. Problems in this area will cause diesel engine starting problems, uneven running and white smoke when the engine is cold.Insufficient fuel supplyThis speaks for itself, not enough fuel in the tank or a problem with supply pipes being cracked or bent. The fuel tank breather can sometimes be blocked causing a vacuum in the tank which in turn draws the fuel back to the tank.Fuel quality – contaminationI have been involved with diesel fuel injection all my working life and still find the topic of fuel and additives controversial. Working with diesel injectors we see the result of poor fuel quality - damage and condition of the internal components. I know that if a good quality diesel and an additive is used regularly it will prolong the life of diesel injection equipment.Poor fuel quality and general wear and tear are not the only cause of injector failure, the newer type of injectors sometimes fail due to design problems.It is estimated that about 85% of injectors fail due to fuel related issues and the balance due to design problems.Air - Vacuum in fuel supply and Blocked fuel supplyThis is similar to "insufficient fuel supply" but dirty fuel filters or a faulty filter head assembly may also cause fuel supply issues and hard starting.Faulty injector/sProbably the biggest result of injector failure is due to the injectors having excessive return flow or back leakage. This is due to worn parts which allow excessive fuel to go through the diesel injector and to return back to the tank or fuel system. This causes a drop in rail pressure (see "low fuel pressure") which results in hard starting or not starting at all.Another problem resulting from worn parts is a delay in the start of injection which in turn results in rough running at low RPM or your diesel not starting.Faulty high pressure pumpIf the pump is faulty there will be a "low fuel pressure" problem. This problem arises if the pump "breaks up" internally causing swarf and iron filings to get into the fuel system. Normally this causes damage to the diesel injectors and unless the complete fuel system is attended to the problem will arise again. This is an expensive failure and no short cuts can be taken.Faulty pressure regulator – sensorMost vehicles have a pressure regulator fitted on the high pressure pump and a sensor fitted on the rail. If either of these are faulty there will be running issues like hard starting, uneven tick over and the vehicle cutting out when the RPM is increased.Faulty low pressure pumpNot all vehicles have a low pressure supply pump but if they do it can be found either in the tank or on the fuel pipe near the tank. If your low pressure pump is faulty, you may experience symptoms similar to those of a "faulty high pressure pump".Air intake restrictionThis would be due to a dirty air cleaner, blocked pipes or a stuck butterfly valve found on some vehicles. In addition, a faulty air flow sensor on the air intake will cause problems running and excessive smoke.Turbo problemsWe are seeing more turbos failing with newer vehicles, I put it down to a combination of things, high revving engines demanding more power, incorrect driver actions(not allowing the engine to idle a while when started and before switching off), poor maintenance and not replacing old oil with a good quality oil. A turbo spins at about 42000 revolutions per minute, the average washing machine at 1000 rpm.As vehicles get older the turbo waste gate sticks causing the vehicle to either shut down, go into limp home mode or smoke excessively.If a vehicle has a variable vane turbo, problems can arise if the vans carbon up, the symptoms are lack of power, black smoke and hesitation on acceleration. Also make sure that all the vacuum pipes and sensors that operate the turbo are operating correctly.Another problem is if the air pipes to and from the inlet, inter cooler and turbo leak due to damage or loose clamps , the vehicle can experience similar problems.EGR problemsI do not know why EGR (exhaust gas recycling) valves were ever put onto diesel engines, they cause more trouble than they are worth. The idea is that whilst the engine is at tick over, a valve opens and allows some of the exhaust gases to pass back into the nice clean air intake manifold.After a while the gases containing dirty, sooty carbons start to cover and coat the intake area and valves causing the air to fuel ratio to become unbalanced thus resulting in more black smoke being emitted from the exhaust. This black smoke is then drawn back into the air intake via the EGR valve. A vicious cycle then starts with the engine producing more smoke and sootier carbons being drawn into the intake, a major problem. I would always recommend the EGR valve to be blanked off but some vehicles will not allow this.Injector blow–by, seat leakingInjector "blow-by" can be the cause of some of the following symptoms. Hard or difficult starting / erratic or uneven tick over or idle / lumpy running / smoke on tick over or acceleration / black tar around the injectors and a chuffing sound from the engine when running. Injector "blow-by" occurs when the injector does not seal against the injector seat in the cylinder head. Often a chuffing sound is heard or black "tar" can be seen around the injectors.On some engine applications if this continues serious engine damage could result due to the fact that the ECU will over compensate the fuelling on the cylinder or cylinders with the seating problem causing piston washing or cylinder over fuelling. Even if the injector is removed, cleaned, a new copper washer fitted and then replaced it will not always rectify the problem. The reason for this is that the seat in the cylinder head has been eroded by the escaping combustion gases resulting in damage to the seat. The only way to reface the seat is to use a seat cutting tool and gently reface the seat in the head. More info can be found at .Cam – crank sensorCheck that the sensors are not loose, cracked or damaged as they are not very expensive. If you have any doubts I would recommend replacing them.Injector wiring harnessMore of a problem with vehicles that have the injectors under the rocker cover and allow oil to come in contact with the electrical connections. Even though some diagnostic machines will condemn the injector/s, many times the fault lies with the wiring harness.Check that the electrical connections on the injectors are good and are making contact.Internal engine problemsThis is generally mechanical failure such as problems with bearings, pistons, oil pressure, overheating, valves and more. The list is endless, it is best to get an engine specialist to diagnose the fault.The Answer is in the SmokeYou can generally understand what is wrong with a diesel engine by the colour of smoke emitted from the exhaust. There are three basic colours - black, white and blue.Black SmokeThis is due to a air to fuel ratio imbalance, either the fuel system is delivering too much fuel into the engine or there is not enough clean air (oxygen ) a few things to look for :    * Faulty injectors (injectors need attention at about 100.000 to 120 000 miles)    * Faulty injector pump    * Dirty air cleaner    * Turbocharger or intercooler faulty    * Problems within cylinder head, valves clogged up due to faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling unit)White SmokeNormally means that the fuel injected into the cylinder is not burning correctly.  The smoke will burn your eyes.    * Engine/pump timing out    * Fuel starvation to the pump causing the pumps timing not to operate correctly    * Low engine compression    * Water/petrol in the fuelBlue SmokeThe engine is burning engine oil    * Worn cylinders or piston rings    * Faulty valves or valve stem seals    * Engine over full with engine oil    * Faulty injector pump/lift pump allowing engine oil to be mixed with the dieselSource:]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2'>How Can I?</category>
<author>noauthor@nospam.com (207ccowner)</author>
<pubDate>Tue, 11 Aug 2009 22:18:33 -0500</pubDate>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.82</guid>
</item>
						<item>
						<title>What is Digital Audio (DAB)</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.10.81</link>
<description><![CDATA[What is digital radio?Digital is a way of transmitting sound and pictures as computerised bits of information. This takes up much less space in the airwaves (bandwidth) than the traditional (analogue) system, so there is room for more radio stations and other features.The main benefits are:    * More radio stations: national, local and regional radio, and stations catering for all kinds of interests and groups of people; many are digital-only    * Better reception: none of the hiss, crackle, fading or station overlap that you get with AM or even FM radio    * Easy tuning by pressing a button: no need to remember frequencies, fiddle with a dial to get a good signal, or retune your car radio when on the move    * Display screen on the radio: gives you information about what you're listening to (such as song details, news headlines, email addresses); some radios now have an electronic programme guide (EPG)    * Radio on TV and online: digital radio stations also broadcast via digital TV and on the internetHow do I get digital radio?It is often called DAB digital radio. DAB stands for digital audio broadcasting, the name of the transmission system.You can't receive digital radio on a traditional (analogue) set. There are three ways to listen:    * DAB digital radio set: as with traditional sets, there are many kinds to choose from – portable, hand-held, hi-fi tuners, car radios, etc. Look for a DAB logo on the set. (Note: first check that you can receive DAB in your area – around 85% of the population is covered.)    * Digital TV: all digital TV platforms (digital terrestrial, satellite, cable, broadband) include at least 20 radio stations.    * Internet: with speakers or headphones plugged into your computer, you can listen to a huge variety of stations from the UK and all over the world.From the end of 2015 the UK will all be converted to Digital and any anologue equipment will be obsolete.Information provided by the BBC BigJohnD wrote ...This switch over to digital is being challenged on various levels, even though it is generally agreed that there are more platforms than needed.One of the biggest issues is that the UK does not subscribe to the same DAB encoding as the rest of Europe.So scrapping your FM radio and buying a DAB radio which conforms to the current UK DAB spec means buying another obsolete radio.The reason DAB radio is not an option in just about all UK spec cars is that the manufacturers are not prepared to put in a UK-only spec - a radio that won't work in the rest of Europe where they use what is usually known as DAB+, using the AAC encoding, as in an iPod.  It's higher quality than the current encoding used in the UK.DAB+ is more efficient, consequently uses less bandwith and is more attractive commercially.If you are thinking of moving to DAB, buy one that is either dual format (DAB and DAB+) or one can easily be upgraded (and don't take the salesman word for that!)This guy rants a bit, but there's some sound arguments in there. Here -  and here -]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.10'>What do those technical names / bits do?</category>
<pubDate>Sun, 28 Jun 2009 04:09:55 -0500</pubDate>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.10.81</guid>
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						<item>
						<title>Fault Find a HDi Turbo?</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.80</link>
<description><![CDATA[Engine Lacks Power		Black Exhasut Smoke		Excessive Oil Consuption		Blue Exhast Smoke		Turbo Noisy		Cyclic Sound from Turbo		Oil Leak from Compressor Seal		Oil Leak from Turbine Seal		Problem		Solution				X		
<br />X		X		X						X				Clogged Air Filter		Replace Air Filter						X		X		X		X		X		X		
<br />		Obstructed Turbo Air Intake		Clear Obstruction				X		X						X				
<br />				Obstruction in Air Outlet Duct from Comressor to Intake		Clear Obstruction				X		X						X				
<br />				Obstructed Intake		Clear Obstruction												X						
<br />		Air Leak in duct from Air Filter to Compessor		Replace Seals or Tighten fastenings				X		X		X		X		X			
<br />					Air Leak in Duct from Compressor to Intake Manifold		Replace Seals or tighten Fastenings				X		X		X		X		X			
<br />					Air Leak at Intake Manifold to Engine Joint		Replace Seals or Tighten Fastenings				X		X		X		X		X			
<br />	X				Obstruction in Exhaust Manifold		Clear Obstruction				X		X										X
<br />				Obstruction in Silencer		Clear Obstruction				X		X						X				
<br />X				Leak in Exhaust Manifold to Engine Joint OR Turbine Inlet to Manifold Joint		Replace Seals or Tighten Fastenings												X							
<br />	Leak in Ducting after Turbine Outlet		Repair Leak								X		X						X		X		Ob
<br />structed  Turbo Oil Drain or Obstructed Engine Crankcase Vent		Replace Oil Drain line or Clear Obstruction								X		X						X
<br />		X		Turbo Centre Housing Coked or Sledged		Change engine oil filter, repolace Turbo as required				X		X														
<br />Injection Pump or Injectors incorrectly adjusted or Camshaft Timing incorrect		Replace/Adjust Incectors/Injection Pump or reset Timing				X		X		X		X						X		X
<br />		Worn engine rings or valves		Repair as required				X		X		X		X		X		X		
<br />X		X		Dirtcaked on compressor wheel / Damaged Turbo		Clean with NON Caustic Cleaner and Soft Brush / Change Filters /  Replace Turbo]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2'>How Can I?</category>
<author>noauthor@nospam.com (207ccowner)</author>
<pubDate>Tue, 10 Mar 2009 02:32:49 -0500</pubDate>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.80</guid>
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						<item>
						<title>Fit a center armrest to my 207cc?</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.79</link>
<description><![CDATA[Yes you can. Armster do a great range that come with a specially designed adaptor and it takes 10 minutes to fit.I bought one from GB Driver for £79.00  It simply screws to the existing central console and is adjustable for height, has a storage bin and slides forward and lifts back. You can see a few images belowHow to Fit:Before:After:Storage:Arm Up:]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2'>How Can I?</category>
<author>noauthor@nospam.com (207ccowner)</author>
<pubDate>Sat, 01 Nov 2008 02:32:55 -0500</pubDate>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.79</guid>
</item>
						<item>
						<title>Upgrade the Firware version of the USB BOX 9702.EZ to the latest release v3.01?</title>
<link>http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.78</link>
<description><![CDATA[OK I grabbed a copy of the zip file from the Citroen site   and used Google to translate the instructions (not the worlds best translation but here we go)Introduction (translated from French via Google)The following document describes the steps necessary to update the USB box accessory software version V2.0 to version V3.01 software. To achieve this operation, it is necessary to have: -- A standard PC, -- A USB key 2MO minimum, -- From V3.01 software for USB box: the file "USPA_UPD.ROM" accompanying the instructions in the same file "USBbox_V3-01.zip" -- Files GW_CFG.BIN, GW_CFG.CFG and test.mp3 accompanying instructions in the same file "USBbox_V3-01.zip". Note: These operations must be "engine" to stabilize the voltage of the electric vehicle. Step 1: Testing the software version in the box. -- Copy on a USB key blank, the files GW_CFG.BIN, GW_CFG.CFG and test.mp3 (from file USBbox_V3-01.zip) -- Turn on the car and put a radio mode, -- Insert the USB key in the box and then wait 30s, -- Check the contents of the key on the PC. -- Two additional files were created (GW_DBA.BIN and GW_EES.BIN) and a directory whose name must be USPA2_00. This confirms that the version of the software installed USB box is the V2.00, otherwise please contact support network -- Empty the contents of the USB key. Step 2: Update USB box. -- Copy the file USPA_UPD.ROM on the USB key virgin (from file USBbox_V3-01.zip) -- If you have not already the case, turn the car and put it into radio mode, -- Insert the key in the cabinet, -- Wait 2 minutes, then remove the key, -- Check the contents of the key on the PC, -- The file has disappeared from the key. Step 3: Controlling the update. Repeat Step 1 to verify the successful completion of the development software. The version of the software box USBbox is the name of the directory that was created on the key ie USPA3_01 to V3.01.BigJohnD wrote ...I've just done the same and all seems well.There is a third and final stage to check the update is complete.  It's effectively a repeat of the first stage:1. Copy the 3 files (GW_CFG.BIN, GW_CFG.CFG and test.mp3) on to the empty flash drive.2. Start the car (to ensure Economy Mode doesn't kick in and screw things up) and turn on the radio.3. Put the USB stick in the USB socket and wait 30 seconds.  The LED on the USB stick should flash to indicate data transfer. 4. Turn off the engine and remove the USB stick. 5. Return to the PC, plug in the USB stick and view the contents. The three files copied in step 1 should still be there plus two additional files, GW_DBA.BIN and GW_EES.BIN, and an empty folder USPA3_01, which confirms the new version has been installed.All was well, so I put a sticker on the box to indicate it had been upgraded to Ver3.01 today as the original label says Ver2.00.The iPod works as before, seemingly no change in that the display still has to be refreshed by a full cycle of the MODE button. The zip file you need is here in downloads:]]></description>
<category domain='http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2'>How Can I?</category>
<author>noauthor@nospam.com (207ccowner)</author>
<pubDate>Wed, 20 Aug 2008 11:11:49 -0500</pubDate>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.207cc.org/plugins/faq/faq.php?0.cat.2.78</guid>
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